A hopeful rehabilitation of an old tractor

Good morning readers! It’s Monday again, and we are back to the routine. Today’s mission is to get the tractor switched from the mechanical fuel pump that it has now, to an electric fuel pump. I am pretty sure the fuel pump is the culprit in this case, because the tractors bad behavior is dependent on the angle of the fuel tank relative to the engine. I think the old mechanical pump doesn’t have the gusto to pull fuel up to itself anymore.

Way too much money later, I have all the parts I need to make a big ‘ole mess of things. Time to head back to the ranch.

The first step is to find power that shits off with the key.

We are officially “under the knife now.

I’ve found the power line that I’m going to use, the next challenge is re routing fuel lines and placing the pump itself. I’ve gotten the pump hot wire hooked up. I’m going to extend the ground as well and ground it with the main battery.

The supply side of the fuel line is in place. Being very careful to make all the arrows go the same way is especially critical. I’ve also bypassed the old fuel pump, which will stay in place

The old pump should just sit there and move air from one side to the other poorly now.

Next up it’s time to mount the pump. Since it is more heat sensitive than the old pump I’m putting it behind the engine wall, on top of the tunnel.

I put a hole in the tunnel, and I think I killed my drill (a little smoke is good for them right?). Now I just need to bolt the pump in place and wire in the ground. In the absence of a big enough bolt I used a drywall anchor. Sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do.

Everything is in now, and she runs amazing… until she warms up. At least I know it’s not the fuel anymore. I think the issue is in the carb. If it’s not that ten I get to really dig in and change the charger on the flywheel. I really hope it’s the carb.

Until next time…


  1. Could it be too much fuel pressure from the new pump? Most carbs prefer 2-3psi at the fuel inet and many electric pumps do twice that.

  2. On my 1950 Jeep..half a step from a tractor :-). ….many of my carb problems end up being an ignition issue (condenser fails when hot)

  3. if it’s needing the choke when starting cold (normal) but the choke must remain on after the engine warms up…. The idle adjustment would be the least difficult thing to adjust.

    Next would be the float valve system being messed up, followed by the idle circuit. Both of these would likely end up needing the same thing….carb “dusting and cleaning”.

    Both of my Jeeps’ (1950 and 1957) carbs were worn where the throttle shaft went through the carburetor body. I had to get those drilled out and bushings installed.

  4. Could you please post a pic showing which wire you used? I think I may need to install one of these on my GT200.


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